Beer Eye for the Coffee Guy (or Gal)

Judged twelve (12) espresso drinks as part of the Eastern Regional Canadian Barista Championship (UStream).

[Never watched Queer Eye. Thought the title would make sense, given both the “taste” and even gender dimensions.]

Had quite a bit of fun.

The experience was quite similar to the one I had last year. There were fewer competitors, this year. But I also think that there were more people in the audience, at least in the morning. One possible reason is that ads about the competition were much more visible this year than last (based on my own experience and on several comments made during the day). Also, I noticed a stronger sense of collegiality among competitors, as several of them have been different things together in the past year.

More specifically, people from Ottawa’s Bridgehead and people from Montreal’s Café Myriade have developed something which, at least from the outside, look like comradery. At the Canadian National Barista Championship, last year, Myriade’s Anthony Benda won the “congeniality” prize. This year, Benda got first place in the ERCBC. Second place went to Bridgehead’s Cliff Hansen, and third place went to Myriade’s Alex Scott.

Bill Herne served as head judge for most of the event. He made it a very pleasant experience for me personally and, I hope, for other judges. His insight on the championship is especially valuable given the fact that he can maintain a certain distance from the specifics.

The event was organized in part by Vida Radovanovic, founder of the Canadian Coffee & Tea Show. Though she’s quick to point to differences between Toronto and Montreal, in terms of these regional competitions, she also seemed pleased with several aspects of this year’s ERCBC.

To me, the championship was mostly an opportunity for thinking and talking about the coffee world.

Met and interacted with diverse people during the day. Some of them were already part of my circle of coffee-loving friends and acquaintances. Some who came to me to talk about coffee after noticing some sign of my connection to the championship. The fact that I was introduced to the audience as a blogger and homeroaster seems to have been relatively significant. And there were several people who were second-degree contacts in my coffee-related social network, making for easy introductions.

A tiny part of the day’s interactions was captured in interviews for CBC Montreal’s Daybreak (unfortunately, the recording is in RealAudio format).

“Coffee as a social phenomenon” was at the centre of several of my own interactions with diverse people. Clearly, some of it has to do with my own interests, especially with “Montreal’s coffee renaissance.” But there were also a clear interest in such things as the marketshare of quality coffee, the expansion of some coffee scenes, and the notion of building a sense of community through coffee. That last part is what motivated me to write this post.

After the event, a member of my coffee-centric social network has started a discussion about community-building in the coffee world and I found myself dumping diverse ideas on him. Several of my ideas have to do with my experience with craft beer in North America. In a way, I’ve been doing informal ethnography of craft beer. Beer has become an area of expertise, for me, and I’d like to pursue more formal projects on it. So beer is on my mind when I think about coffee. And vice-versa. I was probably a coffee geek before I started homebrewing beer but I started brewing beer at home before I took my coffee-related activities to new levels.

So, in my reply on a coffee community, I was mostly thinking about beer-related communities.

Comparing coffee and beer is nothing new, for me. In fact, a colleague has blogged about some of my comments, both formal and informal, about some of those connections.

Differences between beer and coffee are significant. Some may appear trivial but they can all have some impact on the way we talk about cultural and social phenomena surrounding these beverages.

  • Coffee contains caffeine, beer contains alcohol. (Non-alcoholic beers, decaf coffee, and beer with coffee are interesting but they don’t dominate.) Yes: “duh.” But the difference is significant. Alcohol and caffeine not only have different effects but they fit in different parts of our lives.
  • Coffee is often part of a morning ritual,  frequently perceived as part of preparation for work. Beer is often perceived as a signal for leisure time, once you can “wind down.” Of course, there are people (including yours truly) who drink coffee at night and people (especially in Europe) who drink alcohol during a workday. But the differences in the “schedules” for beer and coffee have important consequences on the ways these drinks are integrated in social life.
  • Coffee tends to be much less expensive than beer. Someone’s coffee expenses may easily be much higher than her or his “beer budget,” but the cost of a single serving of coffee is usually significantly lower than a single serving of beer.
  • While it’s possible to drink a few coffees in a row, people usually don’t drink more than two coffees in a single sitting. With beer, it’s not rare that people would drink quite a few pints in the same night. The UK concept of a “session beer” goes well with this fact.
  • Brewing coffee takes a few minutes, brewing beer takes a while (hours for the brewing process, days or even weeks for fermentation).
  • At a “bar,” coffee is usually brewed in front of those who will drink it while beer has been prepared in advance.
  • Brewing coffee at home has been mainstream for quite a while. Beer homebrewing is considered a hobby.
  • Historically, coffee is a recent phenomenon. Beer is among the most ancient human-made beverages in the world.

Despite these significant differences, coffee and beer also have a lot in common. The fact that the term “brew” is used for beer and coffee (along with tea) may be a coincidence, but there are remarkable similarities between the extraction of diverse compounds from grain and from coffee beans. In terms of process, I would argue that beer and coffee are more similar than are, say, coffee and tea or beer and wine.

But the most important similarity, in my mind, is social: beer and coffee are, indeed, central to some communities. So are other drinks, but I’m more involved in groups having to do with coffee or beer than in those having to do with other beverages.

One way to put it, at least in my mind, is that coffee and beer are both connected to revolutions.

Coffee is community-oriented from the very start as coffee beans often come from farming communities and cooperatives. The notion, then, is that there are local communities which derive a significant portion of their income from the global and very unequal coffee trade. Community-oriented people often find coffee-growing to be a useful focus of attention and given the place of coffee in the global economy, it’s unsurprising to see a lot of interest in the concept (if not the detailed principles) of “fair trade” in relation to coffee. For several reasons (including the fact that they’re often produced in what Wallerstein would call “core” countries), the main ingredients in beer (malted barley and hops) don’t bring to mind the same conception of local communities. Still, coffee and beer are important to some local agricultural communities.

For several reasons, I’m much more directly involved with communities which have to do with the creation and consumption of beverages made with coffee beans or with grain.

In my private reply about building a community around coffee, I was mostly thinking about what can be done to bring attention to those who actually drink coffee. Thinking about the role of enthusiasts is an efficient way to think about the craft beer revolution and about geeks in general. After all, would the computer world be the same without the “homebrew computer club?”

My impression is that when coffee professionals think about community, they mostly think about creating better relationships within the coffee business. It may sound like a criticism, but it has more to do with the notion that the trade of coffee has been quite competitive. Building a community could be a very significant change. In a way, that might be a basis for the notion of a “Third Wave” in coffee.

So, using my beer homebrewer’s perspective: what about a community of coffee enthusiasts? Wouldn’t that help?

And I don’t mean “a website devoted to coffee enthusiasts.” There’s a lot of that, already. A lot of people on the Coffee Geek Forums are outsiders to the coffee industry and Home Barista is specifically geared toward the home enthusiasts’ market.

I’m really thinking about fostering a sense of community. In the beer world, this frequently happens in brewclubs or through the Beer Judge Certification Program, which is much stricter than barista championships. Could the same concepts apply to the coffee world? Probably not. But there may still be “lessons to be learnt” from the beer world.

In terms of craft beer in North America, there’s a consensus around the role of beer enthusiasts. A very significant number of craft brewers were homebrewers before “going pro.” One of the main reasons craft beer has become so important is because people wanted to drink it. Craft breweries often do rather well with very small advertising budgets because they attract something akin to cult followings. The practise of writing elaborate comments and reviews has had a significant impact on a good number of craft breweries. And some of the most creative things which happen in beer these days come from informal experiments carried out by homebrewers.

As funny as it may sound (or look), people get beer-related jobs because they really like beer.

The same happens with coffee. On occasion. An enthusiastic coffee lover will either start working at a café or, somewhat more likely, will “drop everything” and open her/his own café out of a passion for coffee. I know several people like this and I know the story is quite telling for many people. But it’s not the dominant narrative in the coffee world where “rags to riches” stories have less to do with a passion for coffee than with business acumen. Things may be changing, though, as coffee becomes more… passion-driven.

To be clear: I’m not saying that serious beer enthusiasts make the bulk of the market for craft beer or that coffee shop owners should cater to the most sophisticated coffee geeks out there. Beer and coffee are both too cheap to warrant this kind of a business strategy. But there’s a lot to be said about involving enthusiasts in the community.

For one thing, coffee and beer can both get viral rather quickly. Because most people in North America can afford beer or coffee, it’s often easy to convince a friend to grab a cup or pint. Coffee enthusiasts who bring friends to a café do more than sell a cup. They help build up a place. And because some people are into the habit of regularly going to the same bar or coffee shop, the effects can be lasting.

Beer enthusiasts often complain about the inadequate beer selection at bars and restaurants. To this day, there are places where I end up not drinking anything besides water after hearing what the beerlist contains. In the coffee world, it seems that the main target these days is the restaurant business. The current state of affairs with coffee at restaurants is often discussed with heavy sighs of disappointment. What I”ve heard from several people in the coffee business is that, too frequently,  restaurant owners give so little attention to coffee that they end up destroying the dining experience of anyone who orders coffee after a meal. Even in my own case, I’ve had enough bad experiences with restaurant coffee (including, or even especially, at higher-end places) that I’m usually reluctant to have coffee at a restaurant. It seems quite absurd, as a quality experience with coffee at the end of a meal can do a lot to a restaurant’s bottom line. But I can’t say that it’s my main concern because I end up having coffee elsewhere, anyway. While restaurants can be the object of a community’s attention and there’s a lot to be said about what restaurants do to a region or neighbourhood, the community dimensions of coffee have less to do with what is sold where than with what people do around coffee.

Which brings me to the issue of education. It’s clearly a focus in the coffee world. In fact, most coffee-related events have some “training” dimension. But this type of education isn’t community-oriented. It’s a service-based approach, such as the one which is increasingly common in academic institutions. While I dislike customer-based learning in universities, I do understand the need for training services in the coffee world. What I perceive insight from the beer world can do is complement these training services instead of replacing them.

An impressive set of learning experiences can be seen among homebrewers. From the most practical of “hands-on training” to some very conceptual/theoretical knowledge exchanges. And much of the learning which occurs is informal, seamless, “organic.” It’s possible to get very solid courses in beer and brewing, but the way most people learn is casual and free. Because homebrewers are organized in relatively tight groups and because the sense of community among homebrewers is also a matter of solidarity.  Or, more simply, because “it’s just a hobby anyway.”

The “education” theme also has to do with “educating the public” into getting more sophisticated about what to order. This does happen in the beer world, but can only be pulled off when people are already interested in knowing more about beer. In relation with the coffee industry, it sometimes seems that “coffee education” is imposed on people from the top-down. And it’s sometimes quite arbitrary. Again, room for the coffee business to read the Cluetrain Manifesto and to learn from communities.

And speaking of Starbucks… One draft blogpost which has been nagging me is about the perception that, somehow, Starbucks has had a positive impact in terms of coffee quality. One important point is that Starbucks took the place of an actual coffee community. Even if it can be proven that coffee quality wouldn’t have been improved in North America if it hadn’t been for Starbucks (a tall order, if you ask me), the issue remains that Starbucks has only paid attention to the real estate dimension of the concept of community. The mermaid corporation has also not doing so well, recently, so we may finally get beyond the financial success story and get into the nitty-gritty of what makes people connect through coffee. The world needs more from coffee than chains selling coffee-flavoured milk.

One notion I wanted to write about is the importance of “national” traditions in both coffee and beer in relation to what is happening in North America, these days. Part of the situation is enough to make me very enthusiastic to be in North America, since it’s increasingly possible to not only get quality beer and coffee but there are many opportunities for brewing coffee and beer in new ways. But that’ll have to wait for another post.

In Western Europe at least, coffee is often associated with the home. The smell of coffee has often been described in novels and it can run deep in social life. There’s no reason homemade coffee can’t be the basis for a sense of community in North America.

Now, if people in the coffee industry would wake up and… think about actual human beings, for a change…

5 thoughts on “Beer Eye for the Coffee Guy (or Gal)”

  1. Reading blog entries like this wows me. As you know, I’m not what one would call a coffee drinker, but I am equally passionate about my beverage of choice – tea – and I marvel at your dedication, passion for the matter, and generousity in sharing that knowledge.

    SK,
    Saro

    1. Thank you, dear Saro!
      As you know, writing this was something of a release. Not that I say anything so personal in this post. But when I get the urge to blog, it needs to “get out.” I have several posts in my draft folders and they stay at the back of my mind, taking space that would better be used otherwise. Not that I really think the mind works in this way, but the image is fitting for the way I feel about the situation.
      As for beverages and passion, sharing my perspective on them tends to have unexpected yet quite positive consequences. Such as: meeting new people, getting people interested in knowing more about those beverages, sampling some delicious beverages for free, and increasing my knowledge of those topics.
      When professional journalists ask bloggers about monetization, this is but a part of what they miss. Not only are social media not about money but benefits from social media are so diverse that they’d do better to do a mind shift.

  2. Hmm. While I enjoyed reading this, and agree with much of it, it feels like the main thrust is that the coffee world could benefit from sharing knowledge more informally/personally, like the craft beer world does. I can only speak for my experience in my little corner of the coffee world (which is mainly limited to Montreal, with some tenuous connections to Victoria, Ottawa and Vancouver, and then through the internet, to the coffee world at large — thanks Twitter!), but I feel like there’s a certain amount of this going on already. One of my first formative coffee experiences was a coffee jam at Art Java where people brought espresso machines, grinders, siphons, and even one roaster, and we shared info. I’ve had professional baristas come to my house and give me tips on how to make coffee, and since I’ve become a pro myself, I’ve paid it forward by doing the same for half a dozen friends (I’ve also charged a few other home baristas for the same service, not to mention many restos and cafes, but I’m assuming we’re talking about passing on knowledge for free here. I’ve also been to several pros-only barista jams, but again, I’m assuming you’re talking about sharing with non-professionals). So I think it’s happening, but perhaps more in one-on-one situations in people’s homes, as making espresso (in particular) is very tied to one’s equipment set-up. I do agree that sharing info hands-on, in person, is infinitely more valuable to a budding barista / home coffee brewer than participating in internet forums is (and that’s from someone who loves home-barista.com). It might even be more valuable than in beer, because you can literally make the coffee, taste it, share impressions, learn what to do better, and then repeat, all in one get-together.

    If and when I open a cafe, I pledge to hold regular events for both professionals and amateurs that are officially structured as half info-exchange oriented, half pure jamming / socializing. Cool?

    1. Very cool! And exactly the type of comment I need to get going! 😉
      It does seem to happen, in the coffee world. Last night, the even at Pikolo was similar to this. People didn’t bring equipment but we all got to play with Marie-Ève’s Mirage and chat things up.

      I still think there’s a disconnect, though. When I wrote this (after talking with Bridgehead’s Brendan Butt), I was mostly thinking about the distance between “pro” and “am”. In beer, there’s pretty much no gap, as professional brewers mostly comes from the ranks of homebrewing clubs and homebrewers have been key actors in the “craft beer revolution”. The gap is, by nature, wider in coffee, as there aren’t coffee brewing clubs around and the specialty coffee movement didn’t really happen at home. But I probably aimed at the wrong disconnect.
      There’s a significant degree of overlap between coffee geeks and the fun parts of the specialty coffee industry. People like Mark Prince have had a role to play, in the coffee world, without taking on one of the traditional roles of the coffee business (importer, broker, roaster, pro barista, machine manufacturer…). Home-Barista.com is clearly an example of “amateur” coffee enthusiasts doing something very close to what homebrewers do, in the sharing of information. As you say, coffee is especially well-suited for this because of the time it takes to go from (green) bean to cup. And what little knowledge I may have of coffee comes from many conversations I’ve had with diverse coffee enthusiasts (including yourself! you made me think about the role of bloom in AeroPress-brewing, for the most recent example).
      Though I notice a difference in how widespread this tendency to share information is, in these two worlds, the very existence of such a movement should be underlined and discussed.
      Still, I realize now that my reaction wasn’t really about the relationship between “professionals and amateurs”. I didn’t express it properly, in the past, but I think I can, now.

      Making coffee is among the most widespread activities in terms of food creation at home, in our social context. Even people who don’t ever cook at home are making coffee at home. I have no idea what proportion of coffee is made and consumed at home rather than at a café, but I would guess that it’s even higher than the proportion of alcohol consumed at home instead of “on premises”. Even if it isn’t, or it’s very clear to most people that coffee “homebrewing” is a significant phenomenon.
      And there are diverse ways the coffee industry deals with this. One is through R&D on coffee-making technology. Though many coffee-making tools are designed from the ground up to be used exclusively in cafés (I don’t think the Clover was ever meant to be used at home, even at a lower price), there are many pieces of equipment which are meant for home use. In fact, there’s such a range of devices created that there’s such a thing as a “prosumer” market for coffee tech. You could say there isn’t any disconnect, here. There’s actually a continuity across a whole range of tools, from the humblest drip brewer to the most impressive multi-group espresso machine.
      Home coffee-making is also addressed through the retail of coffee beans. It’s now possible to get freshly roasted coffee beans to be delivered to homes in several parts of the world and it’s likely that this market is significant for many coffee professionals. In many cases, the same roasters ship to both residential and professional accounts. So there’s continuity there too.
      Besides, there’s the sharing of information we’ve been discussing. Websites and publications devoted to coffee, with a strong focus on how to make coffee at home. These are all very valuable and they contribute to the overall wealth of knowledge about coffee. It tends to be one-way (information comes from professionals to coffee enthusiasts at home), but it exists and isn’t really disconnected from the rest of the coffee world.

      So, it’s not really about the café being the centre of the specialty coffee universe. I’d still argue that it’s been emphasized a lot, in many discussions, but it’s actually not disconnected from what happens at home. In some cases, the relationship between a residential area and its cafés might even be symbiotic.

      But there’s another disconnect. One which cuts the group of “amateur coffee enthusiasts” from the majority of “home coffee consumption”, even in the same home. It’s a wide gap between coffee as geekery and coffee as ritual.
      Being passionate and intense about coffee as a craft is one thing. The place of coffee in people’s lives is something else.
      Pleasure is had in both cases. In fact, there might easily the same amount of pleasure in either case. But it can be a different type of pleasure. One is about carefully crafting a product. The other is about enjoying an experience. The first is more conscious than the second. In fact, there are people who are so mindless in their coffee ritual that they may not even notice how much they enjoy it. But there’s something about getting up to coffee, about coffee “making your day”.
      Of course, coffee geeks enjoy the whole coffee experience. But making coffee requires care and some level of effort. It’s all worth it for the result, and the process can be more than half the fun. Yet the process shouldn’t be mindless, thoughtless, careless. Or carefree. If a superautomatic espresso machine could produce an amazing shot, coffee geeks would probably look for other challenges.

      Typically, people we know who aren’t coffee geeks tell us about coffee. What they tell us can sound awkward, at times. It sounds like they aren’t tasting the same beverage, considering the same factors, enjoying the same results.

      Sure, a lot of coffee drank at home is of as low a quality as a beverage as is tea made with a Lipton teabag or even milk reconstituted from powder. But there are lots of people making lots of coffee. And, contrary to a lot of Lipton tea consumption in our social context, people have a lot to say about it. In a word, people care about coffee.

      There’s a wide gap between “mainstream coffee consumption” and specialty coffee. But it’s not just about quality. It’s about meaning.

      In fact, it reminds me a chapter in a book about ethnography in consumer research, about people’s attitudes toward coffee. Looks like this publication of theirs covers similar ground. Part of it may sound strange, as a lot of ethnography tends to sound. If coffee geeks or pros scoff at it, it might be a sign of the disconnect. It doesn’t sound like we’re talking about the same beverage. And, in a way, we’re not. Coffee doesn’t mean the same thing so, semiotically, it’s not the same object.

      There’s a true discontinuity, here (IMHO). We’re not really talking about a scale in sophistication with Mr. Coffee (or VIA) on one hand and the Third Wave godshot on the other. We’re not just talking about amateur and pro “sports”. We’re talking about, on one hand, a part of domestic life and, on the other, a craft.
      In the beer world, the product can take on multiple meanings but there’s a lot of continuity in how people may think about beer. Beer geeks are closely tied to other beer lovers, even when they don’t understand each other so clearly. The geekiest of a beer geek will share beers with most casual of beer drinkers. Sometimes even the same beer, whether it comes from a macro- or microbrewery. There’s a difference, but it’s not a clear-cut distinction.
      Obviously, beer consumption is very different from coffee making. Beer is involved in rituals (BBQs, keg parties…), but it tends not to be the central part of a major ritual for that large a section of the population. In fact, because of taboos about alcohol, it tends to be separated from many parts of domestic life. Sure, there’s the stereotype of a couch potato opening “a cold one” while watching the game. But it’s not the same type of domestic ritual as having coffee while reading the newspaper and waiting for the kids to finish their cereals. In a Calvinistic mindset, drinking coffee in the morning is a way to “get going.” Beer is at best an indulgence and at worse a vice. It’s not just a difference between caffeine and alcohol. People don’t have the same attitude toward coke and rum.
      Which means that my “beer eye” may be off. Coffee is too different from beer to benefit from the same “eye”.
      So I’ll need to write a follow-up.

      Thanks again!

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